Peak Walks A to Z

If we’d thought of it sooner we could have included Beeley in today’s itinerary and then the walk might have been subtitled 

“A Tour of the Chatsworth Estate Villages” ….but that’ll just have to join the list of walk ideas for another day. 

We began by catching the 218 to Baslow and were surprised by the hard frost which had not been forecast but which made for an incredibly beautiful bus ride before we’d even taken a step.

After getting off the bus at Baslow Nether End by the sweet shop on the corner of the car park, we turn back on ourselves and walk along the lane that heads over the bridge and onto the footpath to Chatsworth. 

The bridge over the Bar Brook ( the same stream which we walked by on Big Moor a few weeks ago as part of M for Milthorpe) is under repair so excuse the lack of photo. Maybe that’s not too surprising as it’s definitely been around a while (current bridge 1759, but even before then there was a packhorse bridge here.)

Interestingly this lane and bridge used to be the main turnpike road that led to Chesterfield until it was diverted to the route of the current A629 by one of the Dukes of Devonshire after he’d had the Golden Gates built.

Once over the bridge we turn right past the “chocolate box”thatched cottage  which looks as though it’s been time-travelled into Baslow from somewhere in Thomas Hardy’s Dorset. This also has a long history, parts of it dating from the 17th century. I guess that somehow it has managed to hold on to its thatch whilst over time, other Peak District cottages have lost theirs.

Today we spot some interesting added extras on the roof as we pass by.

We are soon passing through the wheel-chair friendly Cannon Kissing Gate and we’re instantly stunned by the beauty of the park under the magic spell of the frost.

We head straight on along the main footpath passing the pagoda type lodge with the Blue Plaque to Joseph Paxton, gardener and architect, and on past the cricket field.

At Queen Mary’s Bower we head right, crossing over a chilly looking Derwent on Paine’s Bridge and taking the path over to Edensor,  the first of our two estate villages for today.

So it’s not only the turnpike road that the Duke of Devs had rebuilt when it was in their way.

Apparently the original village of Edensor spoiled the view from the great house and so the 4th Duke had the village relocated. The building that’s now the tea room is one of the few remaining original buildings in the village and although initially they hung onto the medieval church, even that was eventually demolished and replaced by the current, larger church of Saint Peter.

Seems a shame but there’s an amusing story that accounts for the quirky styles of the rebuilt village that we’re now walking through. 

When the Duke was presented with a variety of house plans by the architect, ( Joseph Paxton and his young assistant John Robinson) he was apparently unable to decide on a single style. So, on an impulse, he chose one of each, which has resulted in the eclectic mix of Norman Arches, Swiss Cottages, Italian Villas and Mock Tudor that we’re duly spotting today as we walk past.

The road becomes a cart track as we climb up to meet the lane that runs between Bakewell and Pilsley.

It’s usually a great spot for views up here and today is no exception.

We turn right, promptly losing all the height we just gained. At the bottom of the hill we turn right at the T-junction with the main road and then left past the village school designed by Joseph Paxton ( him again!) and into the village of Pilsley, the P of today’s walk.

Our second Chatsworth estate village turns out to have also had a substantial rebuild and expansion by the Chatsworth team, partly in order to accommodate some of those poor old displaced Edensor residents. Indeed there’s a large village green bordered by houses which were built specifically for this purpose.

However the row of buildings which include the Pilsley Inn are clearly much older ( by centuries?) and were part of the old village, here long before the estate.

Facing the pub we turn left along what was once another packhorse route which at one point carried lead from the mines around Monyash all the way to the coast.

The tarmac peters out as does the village and soon the track arrives at a three way junction where we take a right along a very good path bordered on our right by woodland and with views over the fields to our left.

We ignore a finger post about half way down the track although this is actually a short cut taking the corner off the track if you fancied a steeper descent.

Passing through some trees the track crosses a stream before depositing us on the side of the very busy 13 Bends Bakewell Road.

However it’s not too bad as we turn right along the road. There’s a bit of a path along the grass verge and it’s only about 100 meters later that we’re crossing over to follow a very open and pleasant track on the opposite side.

Having spotted an interesting looking ( Chatsworth designed?) barn over on our left

there’s a right fork in the path through some woodland

and then we pick our way through some wet ground over another stream

before climbing uphill towards the village of Hassop.

Home Farm is a bit of a messy one but it’s clear enough where the footpath leads and we spot a few cows having lunch

before we plunge out onto yet another busy road, this time it’s the B6001 which heads from Bakewell to Calver. 

There are a few blind bends to negotiate which adds to the excitement and although we just about manage to register the grandeur of the building opposite

and the somewhat incongruous looking Catholic Church:

…..it’s not until we’re opposite the ( decidedly closed) Old Eyre Arms that we pause to take stock.

There’s actually a lot of interesting things about Hassop and it’s by way of a change today that the grandiose Hassop Hall ( mainly hidden behind a stone wall) has no links whatsoever with the Dukes of Dev or the Cavendish family. Instead, this village is all about the Eyres, another  family with a long history in Derbyshire.

Besides rather obviously explaining the name of the pub, this also explains the unusual church as the Eyres were one of the old Catholic families of the area, amongst other things linked with the grim story of the Padley Martyrs and incidentally with part of the family having lived in North Lees Hall ( featured in our walk for N). And of course the surname Eyre became forever synonymous with a certain plain Jane, thanks to Charlotte Brontë.

It follows that the Eyres were loyalists and its interesting that the hall, now a private hotel and wedding venue was used, thanks to them, as a royalist garrison during the English Civil War giving rise to a number of skirmishes in the area.

We drag ourselves away from this fascinating hot bed of history and take the lane on our right which after the main road is pleasantly free of traffic. We enjoy some splendid views back over to where we’ve walked from.

As we start to gain a bit of height we pass an interesting house on our left and spot it’s called the Old School House. That certainly ties in with the style of the building although it seems a bit away from it all, location wise. But yes, it seems this was probably the Catholic school for 100 pupils which is mentioned in connection with the Hall and the church.

The road gets steeper and veers to the right before straightening up again towards the top of the hill where we take the footpath signed to the left.

Now we’re walking along a low ridge, sometimes in the woods and sometimes on the edge of the trees. There are amazing views on either side either over towards Baslow and The Edges and actually all the way back to Chatsworth where we’ve walked from today,

or on the other side over to Longstone Edge.

And the sun is now keeping us company for yet another beautiful winter walk.

We pass through Bank Wood, cross a lane and then continue on the path through Bramley Wood enjoying the views when we get them

and marvelling at the number of buds on the Rhododendrons when we don’t. So we’re definitely coming back here when it’s Rhododendron time!

The descent into Calver would make an excellent mud-sledging slalom course. The only drawback is we’ve not brought a sledge. Miraculously we both stay upright which just leaves us with a field path to cross

and a few residential looking driveways ( all part of the path)

and then, here we are in Calver. 

We head for the old village cross

and then go left along Folds Lane which takes us onto Sough Lane and along to the crossroads.

However there are doubtless other options for arriving at the same spot since Calver is a fascinating conglomeration of lanes, ginnels and footpaths, most probably a relic of its industrial heritage as a lead mining and mill town.

Right now though we’re firmly focused on the present moment as we’re well aware that our journey home today is courtesy of the 65 bus and there aren’t a lot of them about. As I have mentioned before, at Calver Sough crossroads I always have to think carefully about our choice of bus stop because the last thing you need after a good walk is to find yourself standing at the wrong stop as your bus goes sailing past! 

Happily though we manage to treat ourselves to takeaway drinks ( and cake) from the cafe and have just enough time to devour everything at the ( correct) bus stop before the good old 65 arrives bang on time to take us home. 

Another stunningly beautiful winter walk. We can’t decide whether we’re incredibly lucky or whether it’s just always better when you’re out in the elements than when you’re stuck inside? I guess it’s actually both of the above, but whatever the truth of the matter we very much recommend today’s walk as a massively suitable winter walk or for that matter, any other season of the year. We hope you enjoy it as much as we have.

Transport 

218 from Sheffield to Baslow

65 or 257 home from Calver Sough to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Various options in Baslow but we’d always recommend The Pavilion Cafe even if it’s not particularly handy in this case.

The Sweet Shop also does hot drinks and is VERY handy for today’s walk.

Edensor’s Tea Cottage is housed in one of the oldest buildings in the village. It used to double up as the Post Office but has gone considerably up market since those days. Find the link in the main text.

Pilsley has its pub ( link in text) and also on the edge of the village is Chatsworth Farm Shop Cafe which has fantastic views if you’re sitting outside ( in summer, not today!)

Hassop Hall is not open to the public in my experience…. I once wandered in, mid hike as someone had told me you could get tea and scones there, only to be politely escorted off the premises 😊

Calver Sough: Cafe 19 at the crossroads has been through various guises but in our opinion is currently very good ( and the shop next door has to be the most splendid Spar Shop ever: well worth a browse!)

The Calver Arms used to be called the Eyre Arms (just to be different!) but has fairly recently, very sensibly changed its name. 

How far?

Around 18k

Route Synopsis 

Baslow, Chatsworth, Edensor, Pilsley, Hassop, Calver.

Should be ok for dogs 

Map

OS White Peak 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/5E95AD75-D46B-4BA2-9707-E84D5297A4EF?units=metric