Peak Walks A to Z

Hello and welcome to our penultimate blog. The excitement is definitely rising as we approach the end of the alphabet and the conditions today could not be bettered for our wander around the Derbyshire Dales.

We start with the old familiar 218 bus to Bakewell

and the equally familiar route out of town up Butts Road and onto Yeld Lane.

At this point, unlike previous walks out of Bakewell we continue ahead and then left onto Shutts Lane and a little way along here we take our first footpath signed on the right hand side of the road.

We once walked back this way into Bakewell but everything looks different the other way on so this feels new and, especially today, it’s a very beautiful way out of town.

The path is well signed and we have soon gained some height passing through lovely meadows before emerging onto Bakewell Road.

Left along the road, we’re soon approaching Over Haddon and the village is looking as lovely as the surrounding countryside on such a sunny day.

We head second right along Main Street( avoiding the temptation to turn left for the Lathkill Hotel as it’s much too soon to stop yet awhile) and we pass the pretty public amenity garden Thurlby Gardens

aswell as a series of characterful cottage gardens and characterful cottages too.

There’s a handy public toilet in the car park at Over Haddon and then it’s steeply downhill to the valley bottom and the beautiful river Lathkill.

Today we turn left along the river path and since we’re wearing our shorts we’re relieved that there aren’t too many nettles waiting to get us.

At first the river is very overgrown but it soon shows itself, such a beautifully clear watercourse it’s the splendid home to a number of very lucky ducks and their ducklings and even a gracious swan.

The river path emerges onto the road just before Conksbury Bridge which we cross after turning right and then a few hundred metres along a Quiet Lane we turn left along the footpath ( now on the other side of the river and further from the water) towards Raper Lodge. I have talked about this building before ( see D for Darley Bridge) and it’s use in the film of DH Lawrence’s The Virgin and The Gypsy and I certainly recommend the links ( reposted here) for fascinating local info on this.

https://www.youlgrave.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/The-Virgin-and-the-Gypsy-50-years-on.pdf

Today we turn right up Raper Lane, marked as Coal Pit Lane on the map, passing the lodge on our left hand side.

What a misnomer for such a pretty lane resplendent with wild flowers in the hedgerows…but perhaps it wasn’t always the case? As with so much of the Peak District which nowadays belies its industrial past.

We walk into Youlgreave past the George Hotel and the imposing church and, turning right we are faced with an overwhelming choice of places to take a break.

There’s the old Co op shop ( which also featured in the Lawrence film) which is part youth hostel, part bakery and part cafe.

There’s Peak Feast up towards the splendid looking Old Hall

behind the circular stone structure known as the “ Fountain “ which is an historic 1500 gallon water storage tank

or three pubs, The Bull’s Head, The George and The Farmyard.

However we opt for the Ginger Nut Cafe which is also quite an extensive village shop and enjoy an excellent pot of tea and a sandwich ( actually a “cob” since we are most certainly in Derbyshire here.)

Youlgreave/grave seems quite a large and thriving village and even has a post office.

https://youlgrave.org.uk

But, what is the correct name for this place we wonder?

https://www.derbytelegraph.co.uk/news/derby-news/how-to-pronounce-eyam-3243213?int_source=amp_continue_reading&int_medium=amp&int_campaign=continue_reading_button#amp-readmore-target

Feeling thoroughly refreshed we head back to the church and turn right heading downhill along Bradford Road

and then forking right down Stony Side

until we reach the bottom of the hill and the old clapper bridge over the River Bradford.

Here we turn right through the gate and into Bradford Dale firstly passing the outdoor swimming spot ( originally used for dipping sheep) that has been popular with families since well before outdoor swimming became a fashionable thing to do. And as it’s a fine sunny half term holiday it’s understandably popular today. I find it quite nostalgic as I came here as a kid myself and it’s kind of reassuring that decades later families are still managing to  enjoy some of the simpler things in life.

Having passed through the swimming area we reach another old clapper bridge and wait while George pads across before crossing over ourselves to the other bank.

This part of the dale feels like a contrast to the first part. It’s very tranquil and the trees on both sides surround us with every shade of green creating a sense of calm and stillness as we wander upstream.

At the junction of the path up to the village of Middleton we pause to read an information board and, once again, discover it wasn’t always so quiet and peaceful around here…..

We decide not to detour up the hill to see the village of Middleton ( no cafe, no pub) but it’s probably worth a visit if you’re interested in old villages where time seems to have stood still and it’s also the place where the famous ( or infamous depending on your standpoint) archeologist Bateman lived….

https://derbyshireheritage.co.uk/people/thomas-bateman/

As it is we continue along the river path, now with the river on our left and with limestone outcrops on the opposite bank breaking out between the trees.

The valley narrows and becomes more rocky on both sides .

The path too is narrower now but underfoot its easy going (unlike the higher reaches of the Lathkill!) We wind our way along the valley bottom and after crossing the river once more we are surprised by a metal flight of steps taking us out onto the valley side.

At the top of the steps we turn right and pass an old sign which feels somewhat confusing as it points ahead towards Youlgreave and that’s where we’ve just come from!

However we don’t let this put us off and continue onward through scrub and rough pasture away from the river which is now more of a stream (Roller Brook ).

The area could well be muddy and tough going at other times of the year but today it is dry as a bone.

As is often the case with potentially muddy paths there are various alternatives to follow but all lead broadly the same way until the path forks and we bear right heading uphill

to emerge into the very smart yard of Hopping Farm and it’s equally smart looking caravan site.

We walk straight ahead and pass to the left of the house and at the other side of the building, whilst the footpath is signed up the grassy bank between the wall and a line of caravans it’s probably less intrusive to walk up the tarmac road with the vans on your left. And there are some lovely views from here too. 

At the top of the tarmac we just break left briefly to get back onto the line of the path and then head up hill to where the path heads towards a stile in the trees.

After a further stile the path which is now just a narrow way through the long grass, forks. We make sure to turn right here and head steeply uphill

to emerge onto Mawstone Lane, another very pretty lane and seemingly quite traffic free.

Here we turn left and now we are indeed heading downhill and back towards Youlgreave. We pass the road access to the caravan site and we do have to stop for one or two motor homes to squeeze past us but apart from that it’s a quiet road all the way back to the bridge at the bottom of Bradford Dale where we were earlier.

This time we turn right and follow the pretty river path downstream through beautiful meadows

and passing yet another interesting bridge, this one an 18th century packhorse bridge

before reaching the tiny village of Alport.

We’ve walked through here a number of times previously on our alphabet walks.

 This is where the river Bradford joins the Lathkill.

We take the back road past the row of houses just because it’s prettier and quieter than the main road.

Then turning back to the main road we cross over to head up the ominously named Dark Lane bidding farewell to today’s rivers and their valleys.

Now we’re heading along the route of the old Portway an ancient trackway we’ve followed before taking us uphill and back towards Bakewell with views of Over Haddon across to our left. 

The lane becomes a field track after passing through a gate and past a dilapidated looking barn. This is marked on the map as Raper Mine and apparently it’s another blast from Derbyshire’s industrial past having been a fluorspar and lead mine in the 19th and 20th centuries.

The route ahead is as straight as a die making us wonder whether the Romans played a later hand in refining this section of the Portway, or maybe the ancient Brits just had more sophisticated measuring skills than they are given credit for?

The footpath joins the road at the crest of the hill and we continue ahead past Norton Barn farm. Our feet know the way as it’s our usual route back towards Bakewell.

But on reaching the fingerpost on our right where we usually take the diagonal path across the fields we notice there’s another path marked straight downhill and on a whim we decide to take this way just for a change.

A few minutes later we are well rewarded for this decision as we get a magnificent view over to our right of the elusive Haddon Hall looking every bit as magical and Romantic as it does on film and so we continue to head downhill with thoughts of Rochester and Jane Eyre on our minds.

At the bottom of the hill It’s a bit of a harsh reality check when we emerge onto the ever busy A6 via a bit of a scrap yard but having dodged the traffic and crossed the road we’re now on another little adventure as we follow an overgrown footpath sign on our right

which takes us along a series of half forgotten ginnels behind the houses. Luckily the path is not too overgrown with nettles as we’ve managed to avoid getting stung so far today.

This series of ginnels successfully dodges the main road and brings us out with a flourish into Bakewell’s splendid Rutland Recreation Ground where we are once again surrounded by families enjoying the sun.

We walk around the perimeter path by the River Wye which is also doing service as an outdoor swimming spot today and we pass a couple of ice cream vans having decided our preference is for a nice cold beer.

We make our way through a Bakewell with a very holiday feel to it towards the bus stop actually hoping there won’t be a bus in so that we can get a drink.

The ( not particularly reliable) display on the bus shelter gives us 18 minutes so it’s a quick dash across the road to the Red Lion. The pub seems to be in obstinate denial of the summery weather outside as it’s still got its Christmas trimmings up but it does the job providing us with a much anticipated and well earned cold lager before we head back across the road to the bus stop and the 218 to take us home. 

A blast of summer in spring and a pleasantly relaxing but interesting walk.

Transport 

218 (or 257) Sheffield to Bakewell and back again 

Pubs/Cafes

Lathkill Hotel, Over Haddon 

George Hotel, Bull’s Head and The Farmyard, Fountain Bakery, Peak Feast, Ginger Nut Cafe: all in Youlgreave 

How far?

Around 22k 

Route Synopsis 

Bakewell- Over Haddon- Lathkill Dale- Youlgreave- Bradford Dale- Youlgreave- Alport-Bakewell 

Dogs?

No worries on river paths and the lanes were mainly traffic free. Cows and sheep on the Portway ( could be avoided by walking up the road from Conksbury Bridge.)

Map

OS Light Peak 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/2A34A532-C966-4AC1-A4D6-A5BA2C59EE4C?units=metric

Today’s walk is a loop which could be started and finished from a variety of points and walked either in sections or in its entirety. It features Ox Stones as that’s the closest we can get to an X and it’s definitely the high point of our walk today, both geographically and scenically. 

We choose to start our walk from Totley Cross Scythes ( 97 or 218 bus) and we finish several hours later at Dore and Totley Station ( train, 97, 98 or 218 bus ) but other start/finish points could include Whirlow Park on Hathersage Road ( 272, 65 or 81 bus) or, further along at Stony Ridge ( 272 or 65 bus)

We set off along Totley Hall Lane, familiar from our recent U For Unthank walk and also our further back-in-the-alphabet M for Millthorpe.

After the farm gate at the end of the lane we take the right hand track and we’re straight away enjoying the beautiful greens and blues of a fresh May morning.

The sheep look well kept and woolly and the paths are easy to follow ( see link at the end of the post for the footpath app route…download the free app and just follow the blue blob for hassle free walking!)

We wind our way through the pastures before heading into Gillifield Woods where it’s straight downhill through the bluebells to the footbridge over Totley Brook ( the forerunner of The Sheaf) and then up the other side.

We pass through more grazing fields following the path as it skirts below the very smart looking, recently refurbished Storth House Farm and we turn right as the path joins a track.

There are great views looking back down the valley of The Sheaf and towards the City and also over to the moors.

Our track contours on towards the right and we pass a little ornamental duck pond before emerging onto Moorwood Lane. 

Continuing right along the lane which is very peaceful today we soon reach the T junction with the main Owler Bar road. The views are getting more magnificent every minute.

After briefly heading right along the grass verge of the main road to where there’s a farm gate we make a dash to the other side of this busy road and get straight onto the footpath which leads uphill through the trees. But before we start to climb up the pathway we have a quick scrimmage around in the undergrowth to our left and find the boundary stone which marks the border between Derbyshire and the City of Sheffield.

This path through the trees is often a muddy scramble but today it’s bone dry and we’re soon through the gate and heading right, on an easy track across open country, contouring along the side of Totley Moor. Once again the views are really rewarding. We can even see over to Lady Cannings plantation and the line of the path we’ll be following later over Houndkirk Moor is clearly visible.

As the track nears the Moss Road ( the track that’s the continuation of the road that climbs up from near Totley Bents cricket field) our way takes us straight ahead and through a gate.

The path narrows as it winds around the side of the hill. It’s interesting to see that it’s called the Monk’s Path on the Footpath Map, most likely due to the monks of Beauchief Abbey having farmed here centuries ago.

The path drops down to a footbridge over a stream known as Black Dike after which we cross more open grazing land with the top of Blacka Moor above us over to the left.

After a gate the path becomes a track and finally gives onto the small car parking area just off the Hathersage Road near the junction with Stony Ridge.

There used to be a toll gate on the main road here when it was the main turnpike road. The road was opened as a replacement for the Houndkirk Moor road which we already spotted earlier and will be shortly be joining.

Nowadays there’s just a stone memorial to mark the spot where the toll house once stood.

We cross Stony Ridge Road and shortly after we then cross the main road to where a footpath sign helps us cut off a corner and delivers us onto the track to Parson House Farm. 

We turn right and follow the aforementioned track across Houndkirk Moor. Often known as a Roman Road although with little evidence, this was almost certainly a major packhorse route before the newer turnpike road was built.

A really interesting feature is the Second World War decoy site which was set up partway along the road although I can’t help but wonder how much, if at all, it helped to avoid the bombing of Sheffield.

Just before the main track reaches the trees of Lady Cannings there’s a left turn that takes us over the moor and then when we’re directly opposite the main footpath out of the plantation we turn left again over a stile and head for the stones that are the destination for the day’s walk. 

There are a lot of weathered gritstone outcrops in the Peak District and indeed we have visited quite a few of them on these alphabet walks. However I do think that these are particularly special especially on a beautiful day such as today. 

Having soaked up the special atmosphere of the place and tried to capture it in our photos we say goodbye to the Ox Stones and retrace our steps for a few minutes before striking left over to the gate which gives onto the Ringinglow Road.

We cross straight over and continue along the path up to the lumpy summit of Ringinglow with its remains of quarrying and ganister mines and at the marker post with a white arrow pointing straight ahead we veer off right and drop down to a stile after which, the path slopes down to cross a stream (actually the very infant River Porter). The path meets Fulwood Lane and we follow along here to the right before detouring into the top of the Porter Valley path

and then back up the other side through the car park and back onto the road. We are heading for the Alpaca Farm where we take a break for a splendidly large pot of tea and a toasted sandwich.

Once refreshed we continue along Fullwood Lane turning left at the T junction  until we’re level with the Norfolk Arms.  Here we cross over onto Sheephill Road past the octagonal building which was once, wait for it….yes another toll house and we’re soon on a familiar path down the Limb Valley through Whirlow Park.

Emerging onto the Hathersage Road we cross straight over and follow the Sheffield Round Walk route through Ecclesall Woods

And out onto Abbeydale Road South

At this point we make an unscheduled stop at the SummerHouse, mainly because we need the loo, but we feel obliged to buy a drink and one thing leading to another we decide that this is quite a good place from which to make for home ( trains from Dore and Totley station right next door or over the road for the 98, 97 or 218 bus).

To continue and complete the loop we would have walked through the station car park and past Rajdhani Restaurant along the footpath onto the bottom of Twentywell Lane. Once over the railway bridge the footpath is on the right hand side of the road and climbs upwards into Poynton Woods. Once the climb is over, the path contours to the right  and eventually the route brings you to the Shepley Spitfire on Mickley Lane. To the left of the pub is the path you’ll need to follow briefly until opposite the entrance to some allotments it’s necessary to turn right downhill steeply to cross the Totley Brook and then it’s left along the river path all the way back to Gillifield Woods and the starting point at Totley. This continuation is marked in full on the accompanying map.

See you again soon for Y ( we’re getting very near the end!) 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/27F7F3EC-B067-49A3-8FEA-3DA060C63CCD?units=metric

Transport 

97 to /from Totley Cross Scythes 

( other options include Hope Valley train or 97,98 or 218 to Dore & Totley station, or 81, 65 or 272 to Whirlow Park)

Pubs/Cafes

Mayfield Alpacas cafe

Norfolk Arms

The Shelter Cafe

The Summer House

Shepley Spitfire

Totley Cross Scythes 

How far?

Around 22k for the whole loop 

Route Synopsis 

Totley Cross Scythes- Gillifield Woods-Storth Hall Farm- Moorwood Road- Totley Moor-Stony Ridge- Houndkirk Moor-Ox Stones-Ringinglow-Mayfield Alpacas-Norfolk Arms-Whirlow Park-Abbeydale Road- Poynton wood- Mickley Lane- Gillifield Woods- Totley.

Dogs?

Expect sheep on grazing land so keep your lead handy. Possibility of highland cattle on Houndkirk Moor.

Map

OS Dark Peak and Light Peak 

What with V for Victory and now W for Win it feels like there’s a certain vibe running through the blog at the moment, and the weather is splendid too.

This week’s walk was shorter than it might have been due to constraints on our time but non the less beautiful and with ample opportunities for extended versions offering a greater challenge should you care for it. ( further details included)

We begin by catching the 272 to Hope Station but obviously it’s also possible to arrive at the same starting point by train and we actually start our walk by going along the station platform and over the passenger bridge.

This plonks us onto a pleasant path up through the fields and with of Win Hill ahead of us already.

I’m sure most of you have been up Win Hill at some time or other and are probably aware that there are a number of paths to the summit. However for anyone who has only ever arrived at the top via Parkin Clough from Yorkshire Bridge, you will surely find our route today a nice change from slogging up that steep, unrelenting and generally muddy groove through the trees!

The field path passes through a few stiles before bringing us out onto Aston Lane at which point we turn left and then almost immediately right onto the interestingly named Free Range Lane. 

We see no hens!…and although the lane is tarmacked we see no cars either.

We pass “King’s Haigh” an ancient looking property which apparently has historic links to the Eyre Family (who must be well known to readers of this blog by now) and then at Edge Farm we turn left onto a track known by the even more intriguing name of Ruin Edge Lane. 

It’s soon a path rather than a track and as we arrive in a field with a junction of ways we bear right uphill and then right again, having joined one of the other routes up Win Hill, from Twitchell Farm.

As we’re walking up, a guy passes us running down towards the farm and as he’s dressed in walking gear rather than running kit, I surmise that he is probably attempting the Edale Skyline Challenge Walk and is on his way to Lose Hill.

If so he’s got a nice day for it. 

Of course as if it wasn’t punishing enough to cover the 21 miles of rough terrain of this classic Peak District challenge at walking pace, there is an annual fell race along the route, run in memory of Don Morrison and with a course record of a mere couple of hours. Mind boggling how fit some people are.

Back to reality for us lesser mortals, and it’s a steeper climb now for the next kilometre but nothing too strenuous ( at our pace) and with ever widening views rewarding each and every step.

The summit of Win Hill is like a proper mountain top in miniature

and no matter how often you approach it from this side, nothing can prepare you for the absolutely breathtaking views all around as you reach the trig point.

Having duly appreciated the magnificence of the Peak District we walk back along the ridge

to the green sign we passed on the way up and this time we continue straight on keeping the height, along a well made track. We have great views ahead towards the other end of the skyline route and to our left the beautifully shaped Lose Hill.

If you are interested to read the totally fabricated tale of Edwin and Cynegils respectively winning and losing a battle around here in the seventh century just click on the link…. But there are no historical records to back up this story.

The round-backed ridge is slightly descending and delightfully easy walking and we soon arrive at Hope Cross ( which is not a cross) apparently an 18th century way marker that possibly replaced an earlier version ( which might have been a cross).

There is a junction of paths here including the one that comes up from the Woodlands Valley ( Snake Road) and crosses over to drop down to Brough. This was long thought to have had Roman origins, but that is now disputed. It does seem likely that it was the continuation of a medieval track known as Doctor’s Gate which once stretched from Glossop to Hope, way before the Snake Road was ever thought of, the doctor in question also being a vicar of Glossop who helped finance the project. 

We continue straight on through a gate and then a few hundred metres further, at the next junction of tracks, we turn left.

The path drops down steeply into Jagger’s Clough ( a Jagger was a pack horse drover) and in today’s dry and sunny conditions it’s easy to ford the stream that crosses the path here.

The path winds back up the other side of the Clough and then continues to contour along the side of the Edale valley.

At a finger post there’s a choice between taking a higher level route by way of Rowland Cote Youth Hostel or the lower path by way of Lady Booth.

Either way works as the paths join up again later before arriving at Grindsbrook Booth, the main village of Edale.

We take the lower path and share our route with a family of sheep

before stepping into a magical hollow way

which takes us down briefly along the road in the valley bottom before we rejoin the path just past the farm buildings of Lady Booth.

For more details on the “Booths” of Edale see our E For Edale post where we also walked this part of the path but in the opposite direction.

Just before we emerge at The Nag’s Head it seems very fitting on a day of Jaggers and old trackways, that we finish today’s walk by crossing over the quaintest little pack horse bridge you ever saw.

Apparently it has the claim to fame of being the narrowest packhorse bridge in Britain.

We are now walking past the school, the church, the national park centre etc heading for the Penny Pot Cafe and an early train home.

With more time we would have continued as shown on the footpath map ( see link at the end of the post) up the other side of the valley to Hollinscross at which point it would be possible to drop down to Castleton for the 272 or for more of a challenge, having gained the height of Hollinscross turn left for a bit more elevation onto Back Tor and Lose Hill before descending to Hope and the option of either bus or train back home. 

Transport 

272 Bus or Hope Valley train to Hope Station.

272 Bus back from Castleton or Hope, or train from either Edale or Hope.

Pubs/Cafes

The Nags Head or The Ramblers at Edale 

Penny Pot cafe Edale.

Numerous cafes and pubs in Castleton and Hope

How far?

Around 15-25k depending on options taken 

Route Synopsis 

Hope Station, Win Hill, Win Hill Ridge- Jaggers Clough- Lady Booth- Ollerbrook Booth- Grindsbrook Booth- Hollinscross- Castleton ( or continue along the ridge via Back Tor, Lose Hill and descend to Hope)

Dogs?

Great for well behaved and energetic dogs but as always be extra vigilant for sheep and, at this time of year, for lambs.

Map

OS Dark Peak 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/CB3AB8CC-D245-428A-8BB9-91BAD5B2189B?units=metric

No, we’re not referring to a (somewhat out-of -character) recent result for a certain local football team we support…..no we’re talking about Nelson’s flagship, HMS Victory!

So read on for more nautical details but first let’s get on with the walk.

Having alighted from the 218 at the Chatsworth House car park

we make our way up through the parked cars towards the entrance to the farmyard and playground but then head right, through the gate signed for Stand Wood.

Apparently most of this woodland was first planted in the 18th century following a desire by the Devonshires to obscure the view of the gritstone edges which make their southern-most appearances on the hillsides behind the house.

The Gritstone Edges are an outstanding geological feature of the Peak District formed over millennia by softer shales eroding and leaving the harder Millstone Grit exposed either as outcrops or longer “edges” which apart from being part and parcel of the amazing Peakland scenery are also a Mecca for rock climbing.

As we gain height through Stand Wood we notice a number of fascinating  and very ancient looking trees and on further investigation it seems there was medieval woodland here well before Joseph Paxton came along to plant and sculpt the landscape for the Devonshires.

It’s all very atmospheric in an enchanted woodland kind of way and has a very different feel to the parkland which makes up the majority of the Chatsworth estate.

We are heading for the Hunting Tower, originally built for Bess of Hardwick in 1583 (just thirty years after the house itself was initially created for her,) but as to how we actually arrive here, it’s really all been a bit of guesswork as there are so many paths and tracks through the trees!

I’ve shown one possible route on the footpath map (see end of this post) but quite frankly, any way that works to get you to the Hunting Tower is going to be fine, and interesting too.

We skirt around below the Tower ( which looks like it’s out of a stage set for Rapunzel but is now evidently a holiday let) until we’re gradually level with it and then we continue along to the left where we start to enjoy splendid glimpses of views over towards Great Longstone Edge and beyond; we even spot The Barrel Inn above Eyam.

We feel very lucky since in a few months time none of this will be visible once all the foliage is on the trees (and the blue skies are definitely a bonus).

We are soon out of Stand Wood altogether and, at a locked gate we follow the path alongside the wall to the left, climbing a vertiginous stile and descending into more varied vegetation and (maybe?)the inklings of a gritstone escarpment.

For a few minutes we follow along the top of this very pretty, fairy glen like,  “mini-edge” which we think might be the beginning of Dobb Edge, before heading back across to the main path nearer the wall.

Ahead we think we can see the line of the continuation of the edge

but just as we’re over the next huge stile and about to explore further, we meet around twenty highland cattle running straight towards us and so we beat a rapid retreat, just getting back over to the safe side of the stile in the nick of time.

This causes a brief recalculation of the route as there’s no way we’re going back over there!

It’s a bit of a detour but, instead, we follow a lovely section of path downhill to the left

and then after branching off to the right ( and over yet another huge stile) we now follow a pleasant track and actually get to walk past the most prominent part of Chatsworth Edge where most of the climbing happens and which we would have otherwise missed out on.

Just past the crags we head off left down a muddy bank to a bridge that takes us over Heathy Lea Brook and then follow steps up the other side onto the A619. We cross the road and continue on the pavement to the right, passing the Eric Byne Memorial Campsite and, hey presto, next thing you know, we’ve arrived at The Robin Hood pub and by total coincidence, just at opening time.

After quick and very enjoyable refreshments we continue to our next Edge, Birchen Edge, and hopefully to the main point of today’s walk.

The path to Birchen Edge starts just up the B6050 road from the pub, off to the left just past a B&B.

It’s another delightful path through the trees, this time it’s the typical sort of birch tree and mossy boulders type of thing and we soon spot the edge itself and indeed a climber who’s about to ascend it.

We realise that we probably didn’t spot a path to our right which would have taken us up to the eastern end of the edge but having passed beneath Nelson’s monument

we eventually find a way to scramble up onto the top of the edge and then back track along the top to get a closer look at the Peak District’s answer to Nelson’s Column.

The monument was erected by a local businessman from Baslow five years after Nelson’s 1805 victory at the Battle of Trafalgar.

Nelson’s dramatic death just at the moment of success in battle helped establish a “tragic hero” image for this sea lord in the popular imagination of the time and this gave rise to numerous monuments and memorials all around the country, but it’s interesting to note that Derbyshire’s monument predates the London one by a good 30 years. 

Behind the monument however, is what we’ve really come to see. 

The same guy who masterminded the monument, a certain John Brightman, is also credited with carving the names of three of Nelson’s flagships from the Battle of Trafalgar onto three large gritstone outcrops which stand just back from the edge itself.

There’s Royal Soverin ( sic)

Defiance

most crucially for us Victory.

And with a stretch of the imagination from a certain angle, they could actually possibly resemble the prows of sailing ships of Nelson’s time. 

We wonder if Mr Brightman was a seafaring type with particular links to Trafalgar but whether or not, we definitely owe him one for giving us an excellent V for our alphabet!

We retrace our steps along the top of the edge and past the trig point

and then follow the path as it gradually descends across the moor to bring us out at the Clodhall Lane crossroads with the main A621. 

Once more we appreciate our good fortune in that we’re crossing this moor after a relatively dry spell because it’s quite evidently often something of a quagmire.

Having crossed the main road we continue briefly along the lane towards Curbar Gap but after a few metres we take the open moorland path on our right

which slowly climbs up to take us onto White Edge.

The scenery and the weather has changed at the same time and we have exchanged pretty woodland and grassy paths with blue skies for much bleaker moorland and a threatening greyness overhead.

The wind is getting up too, but it’s behind us so we’re not going to complain about that.

We’ve made it past the trig point on White Edge

when, on glancing behind at the view, we notice a bank of greyness heading towards us which a few minutes later makes itself felt on our backs as an icy April shower. Progressing along the top of the edge ( but without so much enthusiasm regarding the rocky gritstone scenery now that we’re getting wet) visibility below us still extends as far as The Grouse Inn. We consider taking the next path down but decide to continue along the higher path which leads us to the T junction of the A625 and the B6054 just near the entrance to Longshaw estate and the Wooden Pole.

Scurrying along the grassy Longshaw path we soon arrive at the Longshaw cafe dripping wet and ready for a hot drink and a little something.

The cafe, renowned for its views on a good day with its big picture windows is only showing us raindrops now, so out comes the phone and the bus App and we decide to time our tea and cake to fit in with the next 272 from Fox House back to Sheffield and the minimum wait at the bus stop.

The original idea, which I will mark on the footpath map as it’s definitely a good one to consider in dryer conditions, was to have continued the walk over the Houndkirk Moor track and then drop down through Whirlow Park to pick up the bus at Hathersage Road. 

However we’ve had a very enjoyable and interesting day out and are happy to call it a day at Fox House, especially as when we board the 272 we find it has the heating on!

Not far off the end of the alphabet now and we have a few good ideas for W as we warm up on our journey home, so see you next week, and best wishes for your own Peakland walks from Ann and Jan.

Transport 

218 Bus from Sheffield to Chatsworth House ( make sure it goes to Chatsworth before Bakewell as this shortens the journey time.)

272 or 65 from Fox House back to Sheffield and/or 81 from Whirlow if you follow the extended route.

Pubs/Cafes

The Robin Hood, Baslow

The Grouse, Froggatt ( amended route required)

Longshaw cafe

Fox House 

How far?

Around 20-25k depending on options taken 

Route Synopsis 

Chatsworth House car park- Stand Wood- Hunting Tower-Dobb Edge-Chatsworth Edge-Robin Hood- Birchen Edge-Clodhall Lane crossroads-White Moor- Longshaw- Fox House- ( Houndkirk Moor Road- Whirlow Park- Hathersage Road)

Dogs?

There are some very high step stiles in the early part of the walk and we had an issue with cattle today but the section from the Robin Hood onwards the walk is mainly on open moorland and so more suitable although of course you would need to keep an eye open for deer, sheep and cows as always.

Map

OS White Peak 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/67EB5F1D-8E95-4229-87E4-34C6DAB4C412?units=metric

So today we were paid back for the previous three walks with beautiful weather although to be fair, after the first few hours the snow, wind and rain subsided a little and throughout the day we still managed to grab some good views and atmospheric skies.

The bus drops us just past Totley Primary School and we continue to walk along the main road with the Cross Scythes over on our right until the left turn for Totley Hall Lane takes us down through some interesting snippets of old Totley, including the old 19th century school building, which would have been quaint and photogenic on a better day.

We’re soon passing Totley Hall on our right hand side, now luxury apartments, but with a long history in the area, dating back to 1623.

This turns out to be the first of a number of old halls on or near today’s walk and plants the idea to try to link them all in one walk on another ( finer) day.

The lane soon becomes a track and after a metal gate where the tracks fork, we take the right fork and head across fields to Gillifield Woods. 

We turn left briefly along the main woodland path and then at a wooden post way marker

we head off to the right to cross the footbridge over Totley Brook ( the forerunner of the Sheaf)

and uphill on the opposite side on a steep but easy to follow path which brings us to Fanshawe Gate ( road) and the second hall of the day, Fanshaw Gate Hall.

In addition to the halls of this area, there are also a lot of “Gates” (as in roads) around here, showing just how long some of these routes have been in use. Gate ( meaning road) comes from the Old Norse “Gata” and possibly the Old English “Geat” ( That one sounds like proper Sheffield to me!)

When is a gate not a gate?…

Street names in Chesterfield and York spring to mind as further examples. 

Getting back to the hall, Fanshawe Gate Hall was home to the Fanshawe family from 1260 until as recently as 1944. 

“Who were the Fanshawes?” I hear you ask. Well for further information try the link above , or for a quick answer; they were an influential land-owning family with an Elizabethan judiciary member of the temple, Royalist supporters of King Charles 1st during in the Civil War and an educational benefactor who founded the Dronfield school over 400 years ago.

Back to the walk; we make our way to the right along Fanshawe Gate and follow it as it turns through 90 degrees and joins the main Holmesfield to Owler Bar road.

It’s a busy road and a tricky crossing but the footpath we need is directly opposite

and despite the still mainly inclement weather we now get occasional views across towards Unthank and the hills of North East Derbyshire.

This path brings us onto Horsley Gate ( lane) at which point we turn briefly left and then right down our next path.

There’s not just one but apparently two Horsleygate Halls along here but we manage to miss them both today ( we’re blaming the weather) and our downhill path soon brings us out with another road to dash across and another footpath directly opposite.

It’s beautiful along here in the summer but a bit soggy underfoot today and most of our concentration goes on trying to stay upright. 

In spite of the weather the Millthorpe Brook still looks beautiful today and just as we’re about to cross the footbridge we notice a poignant little poem set into the wall.

Almost as soon as we’re over the brook all poetic thoughts rapidly make an exit as we are faced with an almost vertical slope of mud which we clamber up in ungainly manner hoping that no hidden video cameras are filming!

It’s very much like a mud version of a cross trainer and seems unending but eventually we slither out onto the welcome tarmac of Fox Lane and both make a mental note never to try this route in the opposite direction as descending would have been even worse.

We turn left along Fox Lane and shortly afterwards we make what turns out to be a mistake in trying to follow a footpath on the right, over to Unthank.

We waste a lot of time trying to find our way and struggle through a lot more mud for very scant rewards. I have not marked this path on the route map ( see link at the end of the post) as I don’t really recommend it in any weather.

With the benefit of hindsight it would be much easier and pleasanter to continue along Fox Lane and then turn back along Unthank Lane at the junction in the valley bottom, ( so this is the route I have shown on the map.)

Last time we visited Unthank, before we were bloggers, we were carried away by seeing a field full of pigs enjoying life in the open air. Disappointingly today, probably due to the weather, although the pigsties are there, there’s not a pig in sight. 

https://www.unthank-meat.co.uk

Aside from absent pigs, Unthank does not have a lot to offer apart from beginning with U although you have to admit it’s an interesting name.

There is another 16th century hall; Unthank Hall, which is now the farmhouse for the aforementioned pigs

and, always worth a mention, there is a Victorian letter box. This one is right next to a tree that looks straight out of J R R Tolkien and strangely enough, that’s not the only Tolkienesque tree we’ll be passing today. But more of that later.

That’s Unthank well and truly done and as 

we are feeling a bit once bitten twice shy with mud and paths, we recalculate our route and now head along the same path towards Milthorpe that we followed not so long ago on  our M for Millthorpe walk. This means we won’t be passing Barlow Woodseats Hall today after all but at least we know that our next path is straightforward.

As the Millthorpe path gives out onto the next lane we turn right ( continued below *)

However, in case you’ve not seen the backstreets of Millthorpe before, and/ or if you fancy a break at an amazing pub specialising in cheeseboards, we recommend you turn left here and go over the ford and past the old mill buildings into the village and the Royal Oak.

Today we resist this temptation because there’s a strong chance that, once settled in, we’d get no further …and what kind of a blog would that be?

*So instead, we follow the lane to the right which soon becomes a well behaved path. We’re slightly thrown however, when we come to another ford and ( unsurprisingly) take the footbridge rather than wading through the stream. It seems that by doing this we’ve been redirected along the edge of the field and the lovely hollow way we were aiming to follow is just visible next to us through the hedge.

It’s very odd but it all ends happily as there’s a gate at the top of the field that we can get out of.

We pass between a couple of buildings and turn left onto the road, Johnnygate which is easy and pleasurable walking.

We come back down to the main road which runs along the main Cordwell Valley and cross straight over to follow Highlightly Lane. We are positively shooting along now that we’ve swapped mud for tarmac and we meet very little traffic so it’s all very pleasant.

Soon we arrive at the delightfully named hamlet of Crowhole where it’s slightly busier but there’s a pavement all the way on through Commonside and then to Barlow where our favourite Hackney House Cafe awaits.

It’s hard to be moderate here because everything looks so nice. We decide

to share, but we share so many things in the end we still manage to leave feeling very full and hoping for no squeeze stiles for at least half an hour.

First of all we backtrack briefly along the main road but we soon branch right, down to the bottom of Smeltinghouse Lane and over the old bridge that we crossed in the opposite direction on our “I For Ingmanthorpe” walk.

Leaving the fishing lakes on our left

we continue straight ahead and uphill along an ancient- feeling hollow way

and this is where we meet Treebeard or one of his mates… I’m sure Tolkien would have had a field day around here.

The path is an absolute delight and even the weather although still cold, is a little better.

We probably squandered the best bit of the day’s weather whilst in the cafe but the ominous clouds do seem to be avoiding us for the time being and we make it onto Barlow Lees Lane without incident.

Heading right along the lane we then take a footpath on the left which is just about defined enough to follow

and this leads us out onto Cowley Lane which we follow to the left and almost all the way into Holmesfield. 

But first it’s time for another hall; this time it’s Cowley Hall which is a bit lower key in appearance than others we’ve passed today but is apparently on an historic site where there have been dwellings of some kind or other since the eleventh century. 

We take the next footpath on the left and soon emerge at the more splendid Carteledge Hall where the Wolstenholme family lived in the 16th century.

They seem to have joined forces with the Fanshawes to some extent and, like them, were extensive land owners who later profited from the local industries of coal and manufacturing.

We cross Millthorpe Lane and take the path straight opposite to the unusual five way junction of paths at which we turn right for Holmesfield where we come out onto the main road opposite the Angel pub and St Swithin’s Church.

Our path which lies between the two, takes us into Holmesfield Park Woods and we realise too late, that we’ve missed a hall in Holmesfield but we’re happy to leave that for another day.

After the woods we emerge onto a different part of Fanshawe Gate Lane and turn right.

Then we take a left, along the footpath which fairly successfully shields Woodthorpe Hall ( the final one of the day) from view. 

It’s all downhill now to Totley Brook not without a final helping of mud and threatening weather

but psychologically at least we’re home and dry as we head back to Totley and the bus stop just below the Cross Scythes pub to wait for our bus back home.

It’s been quite a demanding walk with more local interest than we could do justice to in today’s conditions but we will definitely be back over this way again sometime in the future to give the area another try. And I’m quite sure Hackney House cafe will feature on the route.

https://footpathapp.com/routes/38026B55-F627-4D57-BFB2-309112968046?units=metric

Transport 

97 or 218 Bus from Sheffield to Totley Cross Scythes and back again from the same stop as this is a circular route.

Pubs/Cafes

The Royal Oak just off route at Millthorpe 

Hackney House Cafe, Barlow

Cross Scythes, Totley

How far?

Around 25k

Route Synopsis 

Totley- Fanshaw Gate- Holmesfield Road-Milthorpe Brook-Unthank-( Milthorpe just off route)- Johnnygate- Highlightly- Crowhole-Commonside-Barlow- Cowley- Cartledge Lane- Holmesfield- Woodthorpe Hall-Totley 

Dogs?

We didn’t meet any livestock today but dogs would need to be on the lead and fit enough for a long walk.

Map

OS White Peak 

Today we took the Hope Valley train but of course the 272 bus is another option to take you to Bamford, or yet another choice is the 257.

Across the road from the station we walk past the old toll-road gate at the Bamford bus turn around and cut through to the bridge over the Derwent.

Just past the garden centre, we cross the main A6197 to take the lane through Shatton. We straight away cross over another river; this time it’s The Noe which has wound its way down from the Edale Valley and is about to end its journey as such. In a few hundred metres it’ll be consumed by the Derwent as it flows on down the Hope Valley. 

Whilst we’re looking at the river we feel we’re being watched and it’s true….as we turn around we find a couple of turkeys have come to check us out.

They seem curious by nature and certainly curious by appearance too; a characterful combination of ugliness and beauty. And, oh dear, now we’re adding a question mark to this year’s Christmas dinner menu ( and that’s in addition to no more Lamb Rogan Josh since the lambs we met on R for Rowsley )

Shatton has a variety of desirable looking residences all with beautifully kept gardens. Everything is practically sparkling in today’s beautiful sunshine.

Just before the ford we break left and start to climb up Shatton Lane onto the moor. It’s steep but hugely rewarding with fabulous views in all directions as we gain height.

We stop to admire a handsome young horse and chat with its rider before following the lane as it curves around to the right, levelling off a bit as it passes the tv mast.

We’re contouring across the hillside and as we turn another corner we get a new feast full of views. It’s elevated but easy walking and perfect weather, we feel like we’re on top of the world.

The path makes a broad right curve across the moor passing the lane that leads off left to Abney

and just after we start to lose height, after turning more definitely right, we take the footpath on our left. This will take us steeply down to Bradwell.

Take care here as, once over the first stile, another beckons immediately to the left. However it must be ignored as the path we need heads straight forward with the field wall on our left.

We very shortly pass an extremely green pond which will surely soon be full of frogspawn.

After a couple of fields the path nose dives very steeply down the valley side. The views across to Bradwell are like a historical illustration of the area showing remains of lead mining, agricultural field enclosures, quarries and the cement works. And in case the geographers feel left out, on our left we manage an almost bird’s eye view of Bradwell Dale with its wide upper basin funnelling into a narrow gorge like section before reaching the edge of the village. 

For a full and fascinating account of all aspects of Bradwell I recommend the following:

https://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0024/69810/B-BRADWELL-Adopted-Appraisal-Section-3.pdf

Eventually the path emerges onto a tarmac lane and we’re still heading downhill although a little less steeply now,

and then we come into the first cluster of houses of the village.

We pass a Queen Victoria post box ( always worth a mention) before descending some ancient looking steps.

Once on the main thoroughfare we turn right past the church which is looking very pretty today

and then left to the Brook Cafe which is, surprise surprise, next to the Bradwell Brook. 

This stream flows through the village having just emerged from part of the Bagshawe Cave, ( a system which comprises a mix of old lead mining and natural caverns)  just on the edge of the village.

It’s a treat to sit outside in the sun for our pot of tea, in fact it’s so warm that some kiddiwinks are even paddling in the stream.

Once refreshed we head back up through the village along Brookside, the road on the other side of the brook, until we see a finger post on our right

leading us up a steep path with steps ( and interesting views back of the village)

and out onto the ominously named Hungry Lane. 

We’re out of the village now heading along the side of Bradwell Dale above and more or less parallel with the main road that runs from Bradwell to Tideswell. The lane, which used to be the main road out of Bradwell until the B6049 was built, goes through a number of other intriguing name changes to Jeffrey Lane and then Tophole Road as it winds its way along the valley side. Just when it feels as though we are going to be forced down onto the busy main road we find our footpath heading off right across grazing fields and making very pleasant walking indeed.

Although the path is only lightly defined underfoot the way is made obvious by always being able to spot the next stile. This makes for very enjoyable walking and today there’s not even a suggestion of mud.

At the hamlet of Coplow Dale the path gives onto a lane. It looks as though there is a footpath continuing on the other side of the road but we decide to quit whilst we’re ahead after such a pleasant footpath experience rather than risk a path that might be there in name only. It’s only a hunch ( and we’ll never know because we didn’t try it) but it’s a simple matter to turn right up the tarmac lane and then left at the top of the hill.

We’ve now joined the road known as Washhouse Bottom ( another great name!) and it’s another quiet back-road which just skims past the edge of Little Hucklow before taking us to our next path.

This is one of my favourite paths. It’s the path to the right that we need to follow today (but the path to the left holds further lead mining interest including remains of the old mine buildings, for anyone inclined to make an out and back detour.)

Heading uphill we’re taken along the remains of a phenomenal lead mining rake worked as long ago as the 13th century, known as Tideslow Rake. The peculiar shapes and hollows look even more interesting than ever with today’s lighting exaggerating the light and shade. It’s such a fascinating landscape.

At the top of the hill is another telecom mast and as we pause to look back we realise we can just make out the one we passed earlier on Shatton Moor AND for an exciting bonus we can also see the Sir William Hill mast near Bretton.

Somewhere on this hilltop,  known as Tideslow, in amongst the telecom mast and the debris of the lead mining, is an ancient burial mound where allegedly Tida,  a local Saxon chief was buried in the 7th century.

We decide, totally unscientifically and on something of a whim, that it’s this bump with a circle of trees around it.

But whether or not Tida lies here, there’s definitely a special atmosphere in the place suited to a prehistoric site, as with Five Wells Tomb over near Chelmorton ( see C for Chelmorton) for example.

Once over the brow of the hill the path swings right ( look for an arrow sticking up above the wall )

and the path then turns left following along the other side of the wall until we reach the road. 

There’s an enticing finger post pointing to a continuation of the path on the other side of the lane but we’ll have to explore that way another day. 

Our route to Tideswell takes us left along this quiet lane to its crossing point with the very busy A623. The traffic is very fast moving and we are between two bends so we’re relieved to have got to the other side in one piece and back into the peacefulness of our quieter road.

There’s a beautiful stream now running alongside us as we gradually descend towards the village but we leave it in the valley bottom as we strike off left briefly uphill again along a minor lane.

After passing through a farm yard

we reach a T junction and we walk right, entering into the village past a small play area and a strangely tall outhouse

before a quick wander through the back alleys of Tideswell brings us out between the church and the Co-op.

The church is known as the Cathedral of the Peak due to its size and apparently its size is due to the amount of wealth that was once in the area thanks to the lead mining industry.

It’s certainly grand and imposing from the outside but when we decide to explore inside it’s clear that a lot of improvement work needs doing and we read that the funds needed for the upkeep are in the region of £400,000+ . Although we make a donation it feels like a drop in the ocean. Hopefully they will receive some funding from somewhere as it would be such a shame for a building like this to decline past the point of rescue.

Back in the sunshine once more we head just around the corner to the Tideswell Lounge cafe and very much enjoy our second pot of tea of the day whilst we wait for the 65 bus to take us back home.

There may not be many of them but the 65s usually do turn up and this one is no exception; it’s bang on time and we enjoy a sunny afternoon scenic ride back to Sheffield after another lovely day in the Peak. 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/F67E4027-BEE4-446F-B0D4-DDDA02A8D9EF?units=metric

Transport 

272 or Hope Valley train from Sheffield to Bamford 

Pubs/Cafes

The Wild Kettle Cafe ( Bamford Garden Centre)

The Brook Cafe ( Bradwell)

Tideswell Lounge ( Tideswell)

How far?

Around 20k

Route Synopsis 

Bamford station/bus turning circle- Shatton- Shatton Moor- Robin Hoods Cross- Bradwell- Coplow Dale- Little Hucklow- Tideslow Rake- Tideslow- Brook Bottom- Tideswell

Dogs?

Okay for dogs 

Map

OS Dark Peak and 

OS White Peak 

We’ll soon be wearing out the seats on the 218 bus, not to mention the footpath along the Monsal Trail! 

Yes, yet again, we alight at Pineapple Farm just on the edge of Bakewell and, crossing the road, drop down the steps onto the trail heading in the direction of Hassop Station Cafe.

At the signpost just past the cafe, we take the path on the right.

Heading down the first field and across the road we can see our next path which takes a left diagonal across a field of young mowing grass. It seems to have been conveniently marked out for us by the farmer with weed killer; just follow the yellow stripe and you can’t go wrong!

After walking through a few farm buildings at the end of the path we turn right onto a lane known as Longreave Lane until we reach a road junction where we head straight across onto the next footpath which starts as a paved track.

So far it’s all very straightforward but we mustn’t get too carried away on the paved track as we soon need to branch off right over a stile and head up the hill to the top of the Longstone Edge Road.

There’s a very informative square green footpath sign but it’s just past the stile we need and has it’s back towards us, so we need to walk past it to be able to read it and then come back to the stile!

The curiosities continue as our path up the hill is defined by a couple of stiles, bizarrely unattached to any fencing, but at least this makes it easy to find the way. 

After the second stile it’s important to break left towards the top left corner of the field. Here, there’s a stone wall and a stile through to rougher scrub land, and a more definite path for a while.

This area has a strong lead mining heritage and as usual in these places there are so many footpaths it can make for bewildering route-finding.

I have marked our way on the footpath map ( see link at the end of the post) for you to follow but I’m sure there are alternatives that will still lead you to the brow of the Longstone Edge road and hopefully provide you with as many spectacular views as we enjoyed, every time we paused for breath.

From the brow of the Longstone Edge Road our next path heads off right, for just a few metres on a track past a large green sign and then we take the path signed on the left

and head through an area of delightfully green grazing land being thoroughly enjoyed by the sheep.

We are surrounded by beautiful limestone scenery and soon new views open up before us. Ahead we can see the white of the Barrel Inn sparkling in the sunshine in the distance on Bretton Edge and over to our left the telecoms mast on the top of the ancient mound of Tideslow. 

Closer to us we can see the purpose built Blakedon Hollow Lagoon below to our left.This was created in the 70s for washing fluorspar waste on the site of the old Black Harry Farm. 

We head straight on and downhill towards another junction of footpaths known as Black Harry Gate, and our way ahead climbs up Black Harry Lane. 

No sign of the man himself today thankfully but plenty of mentions of this legendary early 18th century local highwayman certainly live on in the place names.

As we gain height we can look down to our right into the top of Coombs Dale. The path that winds down that steep dark dale would in fact also take us to Stoney Middleton but on such a clear and fresh day we’ve opted for maximum sunlight instead even though it means more hills.

Everything looks so beautiful today, even the highland cattle look a beautiful colour in the sunlight (from the other side of the wall) but we struggle to get them to do a decent pose for us.

At the next junction with a tarmac lane, Middleton Lane, we could yet again turn right and follow this down into the village emerging at The Moon pub. However we head straight over once more, pausing to read one of a number of really informative information boards positioned in this area.

Now we have spectacular views across the valley to Eyam, even spotting the youth hostel perched on the hillside above the village and then our path heads steeply down and we’re soon passing the old Dalton Quarry on our right, which featured as the location for a train crash in the recent Mission Impossible film.

Tom Cruise was here!

My impression of Stoney Middleton back in my youth was of everything being grey with dust from the quarrying. It’s as though a veil has been lifted on it these days and there’s certainly a lot of interest that merits investigation if you take the time to explore, as evidenced by the information boards!

As we continue our descent we get some great glimpses of the limestone outcrops on the other side of the gorge that make for some serious climbing challenges. These are still regarded as some of the most difficult climbs in the UK.

The path emerges onto the ever busy A623 and we turn right towards the village.

Imagination is called for now as this would be a fantastic and atmospheric gorge if it wasn’t for the traffic thundering by. We have a crystal clear stream on our right and the limestone cliffs on our left. 

Below the crags are also some pretty serious cave systems too.

The recently restored building which houses the Cupola Cafe, built on the site of an 18th century lead smelting mill, soon appears on our right offering us a chance to refuel.

Inside is an array of yet more information boards with details of the history of the village as a lead mining, quarrying and shoe making centre. There’s definitely lots to learn about this locality.

The cafe is more like a restaurant really but we eventually find a sandwich on the menu which seems a bit pricey but turns out to be enormous. As usual we realise too late that we should have shared one between us ( but funnily enough we never seem to think of this until after the event!) The tea is in a pot and very drinkable. It’s all very fine although it’s a far cry from the old Lover’s Leap transport cafe further along the road ( now a curry restaurant), which used to be the haunt of an eclectic mix of climbers and lorry drivers ( and of course yours truly) back in the day.

As we resume our travels we pass by the aforementioned building squashed under the cliffs and named of course after the lucky escapee Hannah Baddeley who jumped from above and was saved by her skirts.

Just past, we cross the road and take the street to the left of the old toll bar cottage which has been a chippy ( and a good one too) for an amazing 100 years.

Stoney Middleton is absolutely the gift that keeps on giving! 

Walking along The Bank past a fascinating conglomeration of dwellings

we reach the junction with The Nook and get just a sideways glimpse of The Moon pub

itself an historic watering hole, with a colourful history, before we’re headed for our next architectural landmark; an  octagonal church, one of only two in the country.

The Church is dedicated to St Martin of Tours. The stained glass window commemorates the story of St Martin dividing his cape in order to give half to a shivering beggar. 

There is a lovely atmosphere inside the church which due to its shape feels light and spacious despite it actually being quite small! 

Outside again we proceed further along The Nook and pass the old Roman Baths …. not actually Roman apparently but with a thermal spring which gained a reputation in the 18th century as being more palatable and safer to drink than the more famous Buxton water. 

Just past the restored bath house we reach yet another information board (!) and a junction of paths.

We go straight ahead and then after a hundred metres or so we keep left, gradually climbing away from the more obvious lower path.

Before we pass through a few trees we get a view of Calver Sough over to our right

and then continue up to Knoutchley Farm

heading through the farmyard

and down the tarmac drive with fabulous views across to Froggatt Edge, another climbing Mecca but of the gritstone variety of course.

There’s a dodgy crossing of the B6001 and then we head down a field path which drops us onto the Derwent Heritage Way in the valley bottom.

It’s a well marked and well trodden path along by the river to the elegantly shaped bridge at Froggatt and everything looks absolutely beautiful on this lovely spring day we’re still enjoying.

We cross the bridge and continue through the village of Froggatt, ( with not an information board in sight!) and at the tiny chapel we continue straight on the DHW along Spooner Lane and then through the woods to emerge at Grindleford Bridge just below the church with its community shop and cafe. This is a great spot to sit outside on a sunny day and enjoy a huge pot of tea ( or a generous sized cafetière of coffee) and when it says the cakes are homemade here, they well and truly are.

For the last leg of today’s walk we head up the main road past The Maynard and then left down the approach to the station before taking the path up the right hand side of Padley Gorge. We pop out on the road opposite the big white gate to Yarncliffe and then make our way up through Longshaw to the bus stop at Fox House.

The lighting by now has my favourite afternoon feeling and we’re still bagging amazing views right up to the last minute.

The 272 comes along just on cue and we’re soon heading home after an astonishingly good walk and a very educational day out.

https://footpathapp.com/routes/BD7A1321-2849-403E-B297-634CB7D51F3B?units=metric

Transport 

218 from Sheffield to Pineapple Farm ( on the edge of Bakewell)

272 from Fox House to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Hassop Station Cafe

Cupola Cafe Stoney Middleton 

The Moon

Grindleford Community Cafe

The Maynard 

Longshaw Cafe

Fox House pub

How far?

Around 20k

Route Synopsis 

Briefly along the Monsal Trail to Hassop Station- footpaths to the top of Great Longstone Edge Road- paths to Stoney Middleton- Knoutchley Farm- Derwent Heritage Way through Froggatt to Grindleford Bridge- Grindleford Station- Padley Gorge- Yarncliffe- Longshaw- Fox House 

Dogs?

Not ideal for dogs due to livestock 

Map

OS White Peak 

It’s a familiar start to today’s walk as we alight from the 218 at the sweet shop on the green at Baslow Nether End and head through the park to Edensor.

The weather is easily the best so far for any of this year’s alphabet walks and it’s a great tonic for both body and soul.

At Edensor as we head uphill through the village we are looking for a footpath sign on our left hand side. This leads us up a flight of old stone steps and through a stile onto the parkland of Chatsworth.

Given the number of visitors that come to Chatsworth you’d expect the paths to be more than obvious but that’s certainly not the case with this one. Without field boundaries and with very little definition underfoot there are a few footpath posts in the ground from time to time and that’s about all.

For this reason I have captioned the following photos to try to give you some bearings to head for and of course if you download the footpath app ( link at end of post) you should be able to follow the exact route we’re taking.

It’s very liberating to be sauntering through the open grassland of the park with space all around us and thanks to today’s sunshine and a relatively dry week we’ve not too many boggy moments to hold us up.

Jolly good show that the Duke of Dev allows us to wander through his backyard eh?

As we gain height the views back are breathtaking

and we enjoy an almost bird’s eye view of Chatsworth House ( which still looks massive even from this distance!) As we head towards the top of our first hill we pass through a gate into woodland

and follow the diagonally ascending cart track

to emerge a few hundred metres later onto more parkland and a new set of views.

We initially head straight on here but soon turn right at a finger post

turning away from the more popular path which continues downhill to Carlton Lees ( garden centre and cafe) and then a few hundred metres later we veer left onto a very faintly defined path leading diagonally down towards some woods.

There’s a gate and a stream running under the path which now briefly becomes a track which we follow as it bends to the left

before heading right and steeply up our next hill of the day.

There’s a huge flock of sheep spread out across the hillside. Many have their new lambs with them which is very sweet and as usual at this time of year soon has us vowing never to eat a lamb Rogan Josh ever again. 

It’s quite a steep climb up to the next wooded area and again it’s not particularly defined so we just head for the gate we can spot ahead leading into the next area of trees.

Once through this gate the path lies to our right heading off at an angle through the wood.

It’s clearly well trodden and soon bends left continuing through pleasant woodland

( mainly larch I think) and not so thick as to stop the sunlight filtering through. We are surrounded by birdsong. It’s slightly muddier through this section but nothing too difficult to avoid and we’re soon losing height quite rapidly until we emerge onto a broader track and a sign which tells us we’re now on Haddon Hall territory.

So we’ve swapped from the Cavendish’s to the Manners’ domains and we reckon we’re now probably more or less on the hillside directly behind Haddon Hall, not that we can see anything to prove it.

We’re pondering on the contrast between the very visible house of the Devonshires and the more secretive, hidden away nature of Haddon Hall when we glimpse an unusual view of Bakewell through the trees over to our right

and then emerge onto a junction of paths and signs.

We do not want to head towards Bakewell and neither do we want the track straight ahead. Instead we need to turn left along a well-made track which initially has us feeling as though we’re going back on ourselves.

However, very soon we are treated to spectacular views on our right with Rowsley below us and further afield we can see a good way down the Derwent Valley.

It’s a straight-forward descent as the track becomes a lane

and then a road as we reach the village

and just before we arrive at the Post Office we pass a number of very new looking calves each in its own little shelter ( and proving quite difficult to photograph.)

So here we are at Rowsley, our R for today’s walk.

Besides the post office and new calves, Rowsley also has a couple of pubs; the rather splendid 17th century building of the Peakcock with its amazing stone peacock, ( which features in the crest of the Manners’ family) above its name,

and the more budget friendly Grouse and Claret. It also has a school which we’ll be passing shortly and the old flour mill ( about which more later) 

Rowsley is built around the confluence of the Wye and the Derwent thereby marking the end of the River Wye’s journey down from Buxton

and its other claim to fame is that around Christmas time you could well see a certain bearded fellow in a red coat chugging past on a steam train.

There’s also the peak village outlet built in 1999 around the old station building and housing various shops and a number of cafes.

We head over here for a cuppa and for some reason choose Masarella’s. Sadly it’s not the best decision we’ve ever made;  although the tea is in a proper pot the panini melt is a bit like trying to eat shoe leather. Perhaps it’s just bad luck, they are extremely busy as we seem to have timed our arrival to coincide with a coach party. At least this has the temporary effect of making us both feel very young and sprightly ( everything’s relative) but all in all, we’re glad to get back outside again as soon as possible, making a mental note to try elsewhere next time.

Making our way back over the bridge over the Derwent and past both the pubs we cross the A6 at the pedestrian lights and head along the lane past the school.

The road bends right after the bridge over the Wye

and we can see the buildings of Caudwells Mill over the other side of the river.

This used to be a great place to visit. As a working flour mill you could see the machinery in action, buy the flour and other artisan goods but best of all you could enjoy one of the best cafes ever known to be in existence.

The mill always seemed popular and well supported but sadly it met it’s demise a couple of years ago and unless it’s rescued and put back on its feet sometime soon I guess it’s just going to have to stay as a memory. But the latest news is that the flour shop has secured a new lease of life so fingers crossed for the rest of it.

We’re soon climbing up a pretty steep hill with an amazing conical hill, Peak Tor on our right. There’s evidence of a ditch surrounding the mound and it’s thought to have been a Celtic settlement.

We can see Two Dales on our left through the trees and in the valley bottom the engine sheds for the steam railway.

At the hamlet of Pilhough there’s a junction with a large house on our left and we follow the road signed for Stanton in the Peak.

Now the views start to open up in the opposite direction along the valley, giving us a spectacular sighting( at last ) of Haddon Hall, and Bakewell further afield.

We pass a lovely old stone viewing point built onto the side of the road and from here we can also spot Youlgreave, Alport and Over Haddon. Absolutely spectacular and we couldn’t have chosen a better day for views.

Before arriving alongside the church yard at Stanton in the Peak we also spot a cheeky alpaca to add to our catalogue of today’s fauna. 

Stanton in the Peak is an historic village with an interesting collection of dwellings ranging from small cottages to a stately home.

At the village green we head downhill to the right past a variety of dwellings, the village school and an extremely interesting old pub on our left which we decide to investigate further. 

The Flying Childers has authentic atmosphere in spades and also happens to sell draught Bass so it more than makes up for our previous stop….we just wish we’d come here to eat too!

Apparently it’s named after a racehorse belonging to one of the Dukes of Devonshire and dates back to the eighteenth century when it was formed by knocking four cottages together into one.

After discussing various routes which could bring us back this way again soon ( could we really justify coming again next week for a possible S for Stanton in the  Peak?) we drag ourselves away and continue heading downhill to a T junction with a footpath opposite.

We’re on a field path here as opposed to the previous parkland but it’s still grazing and co incidentally still completely undefined. The knack seems to be to head right slightly away from the stone wall, pass roughly mid way between a ruined barn on the right and a much smarter affair on the left and once over the crest of the incline to head for an obvious green finger post and gate onto a lane.

Then it’s simply left along the lane until we reach a static caravan site on our right. There’s a footpath through the site on the right, but we continue a few metres further along and turn right along the driveway.

Partway along the path branches off left

and we pass through a series of hilariously narrow stiles over the next few fields along an obvious path.

Assuming you’re not permanently wedged partway through a stone wall for the rest of your days, the path emerges onto a lane

and then it’s right and downhill to the pretty bridge over a very turbulent river and here we are in Alport.

What a lot of lovely villages there are around here.

Once across the bridge it’s probably best to turn left but either way will soon join Alport Lane, the main road to Youlgreave.

Crossing the road at the phone box we marvel again at the swollen river, the River Lathkill which we now follow alongside heading towards Over Haddon.

In character with many rivers in limestone areas the Lathkill can completely disappear in places at some times of year, but it’s well and truly in evidence today. Even when we can’t see the river as we walk along, we can certainly hear it.

There are various options leading off the valley path that would get us back to Bakewell. The first one would be to cross the river at Raper Lodge and head up through the woods and along part of the old Portway. We were up that way not so long ago so we continue further along to enjoy a bit more of the valley path

until we reach Conksbury Bridge where the path crosses to the opposite river bank.

It’s not much further along the river until the road which heads up to the village of Over Haddon with its much recommended Lathkill Hotel offering both refreshments and views in good measure.

However we decide to save that treat for another day and we head up the road from Conksbury Bridge on the last hill of what’s turned out to be a fairly hilly day. Keeping straight on along the road

until we branch right onto the footpath to Bakewell we head off across the fields towards the town.

Soon we’re passing the first houses on Burton Edge Road,

the cemetery and the chapel of rest

and we finish up with a characterful descent down Butts Road to Rutland Square and the bus stops for our journey home.

A fabulous day out with a nice mix of parkland, woodland, lanes, rivers and villages, excellent views and quite a few hills. 

Transport 

218 from Sheffield to Baslow 

218 or 257 home from Bakewell to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Baslow 

Sweet Genes for a takeaway 

Rowsley 

Rowsley Post Office does refreshments

Grouse & Claret

Peak village various options 

Stanton in the Peak

The Flying Childers

Over Haddon

The Lathkill Hotel

Bakewell 

Red Lion

How far?

Around 25k

Route Synopsis 

Through Chatsworth from Baslow to Edensor, across the park to Rowsley, Stanton in the Peak, Alport , ( Over Haddon) Bakewell 

Should be ok for dogs but sheep with lambs wandering through the park on today’s walk….keep a lead handy at all times.

Map

OS White Peak 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/DEB9D005-15EF-41E9-8C81-453F698BA8AB?units=metric

In case you noticed we’d not blogged a walk for a few weeks and put it down to our failing to find a Q, well think again….today we visited three!

The real reason for the lack of blogs was that half of us was away in the land Down Under enjoying sunny climes and spectacular scenery whilst the other half was out squelching through mud and rain and fog and snow and generally finding nothing much to write home about.

But now all that’s changed, including the weather: two consecutive days of Spring this week has the birds singing and the buds on the trees and with the Ann & Jan walking duo reunited,  off we go on the 218 to Pineapple Cottage, the stop for the Monsal Trail just on the outskirts of Bakewell.

Crossing the road, there are steps down onto the trail where we head away from Bakewell passing Hassop Station Cafe after a few minutes walk, both of us enjoying the weather, warmth and catching up on a few weeks of conversation.

We seem to time our arrival at Thornbridge perfectly as the cafe has just opened and so we pop in for a pot of tea and thereby bag our first Q of the day: 

Q for Quackers

We’re not sure how the cafe got its name although there are various plastic ducks in evidence amidst other quirky artefacts. It’s too early for more than a cuppa (and only chance for a very quick play on the piano before we’re on our way again) but from previous experience we can definitely recommend the pasties and sausage rolls here and the scones look pretty decent too.

Once rehydrated we’re soon back on the trail and emerging through Headstone Tunnel onto the viaduct still surrounded by suggestions of Spring.

I can never walk across the viaduct without remembering my Great Uncle Syd who used to tell me stories about his time as a fireman ( not the Fireman Sam variety) on the steam trains from Derby to Manchester. This was in the days when the Monsal Trail was part of the Midland Railway network and one of my favourite tales was about them having to stop the train to dig through snow drifts on the way to Buxton. More recently I have searched for photos of such an event without success but judging by images I did find, I reckon he was probably referring to the winter of 1947 as that certainly looks like it was an extreme weather event for the UK.

Anyway back to our lovely Spring day and continuing through the Cressbrook Tunnel we’re soon running parallel with the river, which we can spot winding its way steeply below us in the valley bottom.

On sighting Litton Mills down below us we look out for a flight of steps rising on our left at the side of a bridge over the trail. 

We climb up here and through the stile on our left into the Priestcliffe Lees nature reserve. 

Litton Mill is now converted into accommodation but has a terrible history of exploitation of child labour vividly described in John Bull’s book The Peak District, A Cultural History or for a gripping but suitably sanitised fictional version I’d also recommend the children’s adventure book The Devil’s Mill by Walt Unsworth.

After our flat-as-a-pancake walk along the trail we are now going up, up and up. There’s no denying it’s steep but the views along the valley side are very interesting and we’re soon passing through an area with those familiar lumps and bumps that indicate this was also an area of lead mining back in the day.

Once we’ve finished climbing ( for the time being at least) we pass by an obvious lead mining rake and over a stile where we walk parallel to a stone wall enjoying amazing views to our left and some lovely trees on our right.

Descending to a further stile next to a dew pond we turn briefly left along a cart track and then take the next signed path on our right.

The terrain is fascinating and unexpected as we now find ourselves in a small dry dale, heading downhill steeply into another dale bottom which we cross in order to head steeply up again on the other side.

After this, things plateau out a little as we continue over grazing land with numerous stiles in numerous stone walls, all riddled with fossils and with interesting views in all directions. A real limestone upland treat!

We know we must be near Taddington but the village seems to keep itself hidden, almost until we find ourselves faced with the ever busy A6 to cross. Our path continues directly opposite and leads us past the back of some dwellings and onto the main street of the village.

It’s a brief walk to our left and here we are at Q number two: The Queen’s Arms, Taddington. 

It seems that many Queens Arms were pubs previously in existence but renamed after Queen Victoria in her honour and it’s likely that this was the case here. The first pub on the site dates back to 1736 and was known as the Miner’s Arms and it’s thought the name was later changed to commemorate Victoria’s diamond jubilee.

That’s particularly handy for us today as the only place name we could find beginning with Q was  Quarndon ( near Derby) and although there’s some nice walking down there it’s definitely far from handy when you start to consider the public transport options.

But Q or no Q, I’d take any excuse to visit this pub, it’s been a favourite of mine for many years. 

And of course today I feel I just have to opt for a Queen’s Club Sandwich to keep the theme going. When it arrives I think there’d have been enough to feed her entire entourage!

Feeling rather full, we return to our walk and head out of the village, and for a while we’re retracing our steps from part of our C for Chelmorton walk. This happens on and off between here and our journey’s end in Bakewell but it’s been quite a while since C and in any case, everything always looks so different in the opposite direction. 

On the way out of the village we see two really tiny ponies ( too small to photograph!) and a characterful old tractor which seems like it’s come straight out of a kiddie’s story book.

Taddington is bordered by such a network of lanes and paths that the options between here and Bakewell are almost endless. In summer our route would probably be different and more footpath bound but today , as it’s been very wet for so long, we are on a mud-avoidance policy and for this reason we stay on the tarmac from hereon in.

I’m not going to give a step by step commentary of the route as you can click on the map at the end of the post to see exactly where we’ve gone today and equally you can see what other possibilities there are and decide for yourselves which way to follow depending on weather, time of year or your love of mud over tarmac.

Having said all that, today’s turns out to be an extremely pleasant route as there’s hardly any traffic and since we’re not busy looking at our feet, we get the opportunity to fully enjoy the views. 

Not least of these are the views across to Fin Cop the Iron Age settlement which looks incredibly imposing from this angle.

We wander through Sheldon spotting Magpie Mine on the way

and then a little later  we can see the roofs of Ashford-in-the-Water in the valley and over towards Ball Cross and Bakewell golf club up ahead of us.

We even see our old friend Beeley Moor ( featured in our K for Kelstedge) beautifully highlighted by the afternoon sun. Next thing we know we’re descending Stanedge Road past St Anselm’s School and arriving into Bakewell by the Church, down North Church Street.

Just as we’re drawing level with The Rutland Hotel we can see there’s a bus in and waiting but it’s not a 218 and the new(ish) fangled display on the bus shelter tells us we just have time for a quick drink in our third Q of the day, Another Queen’s Arms, this one on the corner of Bridge Street and Market Street.

This was apparently known as The Durham Ox before it was extensively rebuilt during the time of Victoria’s reign and renamed after her.

There’s a handy window looking out onto Bridge Street so we can spot the bus coming into the town and still get back to the stop in time. That’s the theory anyway and it certainly works today, rounding off a very pleasant day out with a bang-on-time bus to take us home. 

A top quality day out! 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/D0C58523-D288-4ED7-8E17-89B8717CA7BD?units=metric

Transport 

218 from Sheffield to Pineapple Cottage, Bakewell 

218 or 257 home from Bakewell to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Quackers Cafe Thornbridge 

Queens Arms Taddington 

Queens Arms Bakewell 

How far?

Around 25k

Route Synopsis 

Monsal Trail from near Hassop Station to Litton Mills-Prisetcliffe Lees-Taddington-Sheldon-Bakewell 

Should be ok for dogs 

Map

OS White Peak 

If we’d thought of it sooner we could have included Beeley in today’s itinerary and then the walk might have been subtitled 

“A Tour of the Chatsworth Estate Villages” ….but that’ll just have to join the list of walk ideas for another day. 

We began by catching the 218 to Baslow and were surprised by the hard frost which had not been forecast but which made for an incredibly beautiful bus ride before we’d even taken a step.

After getting off the bus at Baslow Nether End by the sweet shop on the corner of the car park, we turn back on ourselves and walk along the lane that heads over the bridge and onto the footpath to Chatsworth. 

The bridge over the Bar Brook ( the same stream which we walked by on Big Moor a few weeks ago as part of M for Milthorpe) is under repair so excuse the lack of photo. Maybe that’s not too surprising as it’s definitely been around a while (current bridge 1759, but even before then there was a packhorse bridge here.)

Interestingly this lane and bridge used to be the main turnpike road that led to Chesterfield until it was diverted to the route of the current A629 by one of the Dukes of Devonshire after he’d had the Golden Gates built.

Once over the bridge we turn right past the “chocolate box”thatched cottage  which looks as though it’s been time-travelled into Baslow from somewhere in Thomas Hardy’s Dorset. This also has a long history, parts of it dating from the 17th century. I guess that somehow it has managed to hold on to its thatch whilst over time, other Peak District cottages have lost theirs.

Today we spot some interesting added extras on the roof as we pass by.

We are soon passing through the wheel-chair friendly Cannon Kissing Gate and we’re instantly stunned by the beauty of the park under the magic spell of the frost.

We head straight on along the main footpath passing the pagoda type lodge with the Blue Plaque to Joseph Paxton, gardener and architect, and on past the cricket field.

At Queen Mary’s Bower we head right, crossing over a chilly looking Derwent on Paine’s Bridge and taking the path over to Edensor,  the first of our two estate villages for today.

So it’s not only the turnpike road that the Duke of Devs had rebuilt when it was in their way.

Apparently the original village of Edensor spoiled the view from the great house and so the 4th Duke had the village relocated. The building that’s now the tea room is one of the few remaining original buildings in the village and although initially they hung onto the medieval church, even that was eventually demolished and replaced by the current, larger church of Saint Peter.

Seems a shame but there’s an amusing story that accounts for the quirky styles of the rebuilt village that we’re now walking through. 

When the Duke was presented with a variety of house plans by the architect, ( Joseph Paxton and his young assistant John Robinson) he was apparently unable to decide on a single style. So, on an impulse, he chose one of each, which has resulted in the eclectic mix of Norman Arches, Swiss Cottages, Italian Villas and Mock Tudor that we’re duly spotting today as we walk past.

The road becomes a cart track as we climb up to meet the lane that runs between Bakewell and Pilsley.

It’s usually a great spot for views up here and today is no exception.

We turn right, promptly losing all the height we just gained. At the bottom of the hill we turn right at the T-junction with the main road and then left past the village school designed by Joseph Paxton ( him again!) and into the village of Pilsley, the P of today’s walk.

Our second Chatsworth estate village turns out to have also had a substantial rebuild and expansion by the Chatsworth team, partly in order to accommodate some of those poor old displaced Edensor residents. Indeed there’s a large village green bordered by houses which were built specifically for this purpose.

However the row of buildings which include the Pilsley Inn are clearly much older ( by centuries?) and were part of the old village, here long before the estate.

Facing the pub we turn left along what was once another packhorse route which at one point carried lead from the mines around Monyash all the way to the coast.

The tarmac peters out as does the village and soon the track arrives at a three way junction where we take a right along a very good path bordered on our right by woodland and with views over the fields to our left.

We ignore a finger post about half way down the track although this is actually a short cut taking the corner off the track if you fancied a steeper descent.

Passing through some trees the track crosses a stream before depositing us on the side of the very busy 13 Bends Bakewell Road.

However it’s not too bad as we turn right along the road. There’s a bit of a path along the grass verge and it’s only about 100 meters later that we’re crossing over to follow a very open and pleasant track on the opposite side.

Having spotted an interesting looking ( Chatsworth designed?) barn over on our left

there’s a right fork in the path through some woodland

and then we pick our way through some wet ground over another stream

before climbing uphill towards the village of Hassop.

Home Farm is a bit of a messy one but it’s clear enough where the footpath leads and we spot a few cows having lunch

before we plunge out onto yet another busy road, this time it’s the B6001 which heads from Bakewell to Calver. 

There are a few blind bends to negotiate which adds to the excitement and although we just about manage to register the grandeur of the building opposite

and the somewhat incongruous looking Catholic Church:

…..it’s not until we’re opposite the ( decidedly closed) Old Eyre Arms that we pause to take stock.

There’s actually a lot of interesting things about Hassop and it’s by way of a change today that the grandiose Hassop Hall ( mainly hidden behind a stone wall) has no links whatsoever with the Dukes of Dev or the Cavendish family. Instead, this village is all about the Eyres, another  family with a long history in Derbyshire.

Besides rather obviously explaining the name of the pub, this also explains the unusual church as the Eyres were one of the old Catholic families of the area, amongst other things linked with the grim story of the Padley Martyrs and incidentally with part of the family having lived in North Lees Hall ( featured in our walk for N). And of course the surname Eyre became forever synonymous with a certain plain Jane, thanks to Charlotte Brontë.

It follows that the Eyres were loyalists and its interesting that the hall, now a private hotel and wedding venue was used, thanks to them, as a royalist garrison during the English Civil War giving rise to a number of skirmishes in the area.

We drag ourselves away from this fascinating hot bed of history and take the lane on our right which after the main road is pleasantly free of traffic. We enjoy some splendid views back over to where we’ve walked from.

As we start to gain a bit of height we pass an interesting house on our left and spot it’s called the Old School House. That certainly ties in with the style of the building although it seems a bit away from it all, location wise. But yes, it seems this was probably the Catholic school for 100 pupils which is mentioned in connection with the Hall and the church.

The road gets steeper and veers to the right before straightening up again towards the top of the hill where we take the footpath signed to the left.

Now we’re walking along a low ridge, sometimes in the woods and sometimes on the edge of the trees. There are amazing views on either side either over towards Baslow and The Edges and actually all the way back to Chatsworth where we’ve walked from today,

or on the other side over to Longstone Edge.

And the sun is now keeping us company for yet another beautiful winter walk.

We pass through Bank Wood, cross a lane and then continue on the path through Bramley Wood enjoying the views when we get them

and marvelling at the number of buds on the Rhododendrons when we don’t. So we’re definitely coming back here when it’s Rhododendron time!

The descent into Calver would make an excellent mud-sledging slalom course. The only drawback is we’ve not brought a sledge. Miraculously we both stay upright which just leaves us with a field path to cross

and a few residential looking driveways ( all part of the path)

and then, here we are in Calver. 

We head for the old village cross

and then go left along Folds Lane which takes us onto Sough Lane and along to the crossroads.

However there are doubtless other options for arriving at the same spot since Calver is a fascinating conglomeration of lanes, ginnels and footpaths, most probably a relic of its industrial heritage as a lead mining and mill town.

Right now though we’re firmly focused on the present moment as we’re well aware that our journey home today is courtesy of the 65 bus and there aren’t a lot of them about. As I have mentioned before, at Calver Sough crossroads I always have to think carefully about our choice of bus stop because the last thing you need after a good walk is to find yourself standing at the wrong stop as your bus goes sailing past! 

Happily though we manage to treat ourselves to takeaway drinks ( and cake) from the cafe and have just enough time to devour everything at the ( correct) bus stop before the good old 65 arrives bang on time to take us home. 

Another stunningly beautiful winter walk. We can’t decide whether we’re incredibly lucky or whether it’s just always better when you’re out in the elements than when you’re stuck inside? I guess it’s actually both of the above, but whatever the truth of the matter we very much recommend today’s walk as a massively suitable winter walk or for that matter, any other season of the year. We hope you enjoy it as much as we have.

Transport 

218 from Sheffield to Baslow

65 or 257 home from Calver Sough to Sheffield 

Pubs/Cafes

Various options in Baslow but we’d always recommend The Pavilion Cafe even if it’s not particularly handy in this case.

The Sweet Shop also does hot drinks and is VERY handy for today’s walk.

Edensor’s Tea Cottage is housed in one of the oldest buildings in the village. It used to double up as the Post Office but has gone considerably up market since those days. Find the link in the main text.

Pilsley has its pub ( link in text) and also on the edge of the village is Chatsworth Farm Shop Cafe which has fantastic views if you’re sitting outside ( in summer, not today!)

Hassop Hall is not open to the public in my experience…. I once wandered in, mid hike as someone had told me you could get tea and scones there, only to be politely escorted off the premises 😊

Calver Sough: Cafe 19 at the crossroads has been through various guises but in our opinion is currently very good ( and the shop next door has to be the most splendid Spar Shop ever: well worth a browse!)

The Calver Arms used to be called the Eyre Arms (just to be different!) but has fairly recently, very sensibly changed its name. 

How far?

Around 18k

Route Synopsis 

Baslow, Chatsworth, Edensor, Pilsley, Hassop, Calver.

Should be ok for dogs 

Map

OS White Peak 

https://footpathapp.com/routes/5E95AD75-D46B-4BA2-9707-E84D5297A4EF?units=metric